Surf School Stories: On the green wave

So today, Simon, one of the surf coaches, took me “Out the Back” meaning paddled me out beyond the white water waves to where I might be able to attempt catching a ‘green’ or rather unbroken wave.

Let me just tell you that paddling out the back is so much harder than it looks. OK, I have to admit that my first paddle out wasn’t that bad because we caught the rip tide out so we didn’t have to work that hard but I was still exhausted. Of course once we got out there, Simon said “Wow, that was easy, but we didn’t get to work on any of the rolls under the waves, so we’ll have to catch a wave in and do it again.” Ugh, but so right. Practice makes perfect after all. I will be in much better shape when I finally make it back to Frankfurt.

I did manage to catch one green wave before we headed in, I didn’t quite stand up because I was so surprised, but my god what a rush! I can’t wait to do it again. I really hope the conditions stay favorable the rest of the time I’m here.

Surf School Stories: Bang up on a long board

Finally I’ve moved off the soft training boards onto a proper surf board. It’s about time too because those Swellies have been tearing up my hands the last few days. I’ve had to wear latex gloves to keep from completely ripping them to shreds. Entertainingly enough, it makes me look like I’m about to give someone a medical exam of sorts.

Anyway, today I moved off the foam training board and got put on an enormous 9+ foot longboard, which means I had a lot of surf board to handle in the waves today. But it was so much fun! I fell off more times than I could count, but by the end I was up and riding again although I didn’t get to do the big paddle out with Aari, my new best competitive friend. He’s a fantastic Australian guy from Sydney who happens to be living in London right now. But he’s annoyingly fast at picking up surfing for someone who’s never done it before.

Oh well, always good to have a little competitive spirit to push you further.

Today was such fun though. I love playing on a hard board although I have this feeling I am going to come home with immense bruises all over my body because of it. So nice to feel alive again.

Surf School Stories: Christmas eve dinner

So here it is, I’ve made friends. After arriving knowing no one at all, in three days as the full mooon lights up the sky I’ve somehow found myself making dinner with George and two of the girls in the surf course for Christmas Eve Dinner. I guess I really am an extraverted personality type. I have been totally reenergized by all of the people I’ve been meeting and once again I’m am stunned by how many fantastic people I keep encountering in all of my travels.

As I said, Christmas Eve dinner at my house with George and two Irish girls I met the last few days, Claire and Anne (pronounced like Anna with an ‘a’). Very cool, very last minute and somehow, between George and I, we managed to throw together a makeshift Spanish tortilla with pan fried potatoes and more than a few bottles of wine. Not so bad for catch as catch can.

After downing the food and beverage plus a few photo ops of us doing our best surf poses we were off for the only bar that was open in town, the Surf Bar. And while there I managed to spend most of the rest of the evening staring mesmerized at a series of surf DVDs including one featuring some of the big waves around Lanzarote Island. I think I might have to rent a car to go check some of them out before I leave.

Finally around 4am on Christmas Morning, we all stumbled (and I do mean stumbled) home. Not a bad way to kick off the holidays.

Surf School Stories: Ballerina on a board

Well, I’ve earned myself the nickname ballerina from George, one of the three coaches, for how I dance around on the board. I can’t quite seem to plant my feet once I’m up on them. But regardless of my challenges staying upright, I’m loving the experience.

Surfing seems to combine some of my favorite activities, the obvious ones of course, swimming and surf, but also things like yoga and skiing. The element of balance and speed combined is unbelievably fun. I have a sinking feeling that I may be acquiring a new piece of sports equipment before I leave the island.

Surf School Stories: My first day

For the last few months I’ve been itching for a vacation that lasts longer than a four day weekend, so when I realized that all of my clients would be on holiday over the Christmas/New Year’s period I decided to seize my chance and escape for two weeks. Although Asia was first on my list, the flight was so incredibly expensive that I went to my fall back, surf school in the Canary Islands. For less than the price of a ticket to Hong Kong I have managed to secure myself two weeks accommodations, 10 days of surf school and airfare to Caleta de Famara, Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain.

And here I am, I arrived yesterday and I have just finished my first day of surfing. So far, I love it. The coaches are fantastic. Two guys from the UK, both what you’d imagine surf instructors to be, typical beach blond boys who must be somewhere between 26 and 30 years old. But hugely knowledgeable about their sport. I’ve been so impressed already. And! I’ve actually managed to stand up one of the soft training boards. Not bad for having never surfed before.

It’s funny how after months of having no time to do anything active, I find myself so comfortably, physically exhausted at the end of the day. I really do miss this feeling when work gets too crazy and hectic to do more than just stumble home and fall into bed. I think it’s a good reminder that there’s more to life than just sitting behind a desk all day, every day for 12+ hours at a time.

I have a good feeling about this holiday.