Finally I’ve moved off the soft training boards onto a proper surf board. It’s about time too because those Swellies have been tearing up my hands the last few days. I’ve had to wear latex gloves to keep from completely ripping them to shreds. Entertainingly enough, it makes me look like I’m about to give someone a medical exam of sorts.
Anyway, today I moved off the foam training board and got put on an enormous 9+ foot longboard, which means I had a lot of surf board to handle in the waves today. But it was so much fun! I fell off more times than I could count, but by the end I was up and riding again although I didn’t get to do the big paddle out with Aari, my new best competitive friend. He’s a fantastic Australian guy from Sydney who happens to be living in London right now. But he’s annoyingly fast at picking up surfing for someone who’s never done it before.
Oh well, always good to have a little competitive spirit to push you further.
Today was such fun though. I love playing on a hard board although I have this feeling I am going to come home with immense bruises all over my body because of it. So nice to feel alive again.
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