Lost in Spain: Sights of Barcelona

Had a few photos I just didn't know where to put. So here are a few of the sights I saw while we traipsed across the city over the weekend.

Lost in Spain: Sardanes in Squares

As we were walking around today enjoying our last hours in Barcelona, we kept coming across circles of older folk dancing outside of the Cathedral near La Rambla. I didn't take any pictures of this unfortunately, but I found this one online.

It was so sweet to watch, these groups of men and women, clasping hands and dancing what was clearly a traditional dance around piles of their bags. We saw a group of teenagers start doing what all teenagers do: mocking tradition. Until an older man, stepped forward and chastised them quite strongly. It was great, the kids just picked up their bags and suddenly became respectful again.

Anyway, I thought for sure it must be some kind of demonstration or special event, so when we got back to the hotel I asked guest reception what was going on. The woman at the front desk said that these dances, Sardanes, happen almost every weekend on Sundays. People will just spontaneously begin dancing to the music in the squares. In fact, all children in Catalan are taught these dances in school, although most of the kids think they're kind of silly.

What a fantastic tradition though. I love that people just dance in the streets here. I quite like this city.

Lost in Spain: Sleepy Park Afternoons

We've had our fill of art for the day, and now it's time for a nap. We've found a wonderful park up here on the hill where the Miro Museum is located. According to my Lonely Planet guidebook, this is supposed to be a superb place for napping. The park is called Jardins de Mossen Cinto de Verdaguer. I highly recommend a summer's day nap under the trees here. It's beautiful.

Lost in Spain: Miró

So today, we went up the hillside on the funicular subway to visit the Miró Foundation museum. I have to be honest, I didn't really know much about Miro before we went up there, but it was something Nick really wanted to see, and I do love learning more about art.

It was a great museum I have to say. I've seen some Miro pieces before, but to see them all collected together was pretty imposing. If it had been a few decades later I might have thought the man was doing some pretty serious drugs when he was painting.

Anyway, we're off tomorrow to see the Picasso Museum which I'm really excited about. Apparently the museum takes you through a progressive exhibit that starts with Picasso's early training and leads you all the way through the last of his paintings. I'm so curious to see how he developed his style over the years.

Must say, the art side of things is kind of a nice counterpoint to all of the culinary emphasis this trip has had . . . . also better for my waistline.

Lost in Spain: Shop til ya drop

Poor Nick. I've dragged him around all day hunting for shoes in my size (they grow'em too big in Germany so I can never find shoes for my itty-bitty feet). On my hunt though I did stumble by this rather fabulous clothing store called Tomate. They deal with about 60 designers living and working throughout Spain. Some very cool stuff. If you happen to be in town, I highly recommend checking them out.

Tomate

Located at:
Bayns Nous, 22
Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93-3013788

and also at:
Capellans, 3
Barcelona, Spain
Phone: 93-3043665

website: www.tomate-bcn.com

Lost in Spain: Market Breakfasts

So to continue our culinary binge this weekend, I dragged Nick over to La Boqueria, which is one of the biggest permanent produce markets in Europe. They actually have a partnership with London's Borough market (although from what I've read La Boqueria is much bigger even if the market in London is older).

the market. I had a super lovely cafe con leche and some churrosTo avoid the other tourist types, we went over early and got a bit of something to eat to build up the strength to wander through to top it off. Can't really go wrong with fried dough and coffee in the morning. Mmmm. . . .

What a market though, I mean talk about visual, sensorial overload. Between the rainbows of fruit and the juices they were being squeezed into and the gleaming, ice pack piles of fish, I could hardly decide where I should be looking. Of course there were oodles of stands selling the ubiquitous Jamon Iberico. Newly educated after our oh so satisfying meal at Jamonisimo our scrutiny of the offers was intense. Not that we had any chance of picking up a leg of ham to bring home, but there was definitely a very vigorous discussion between Nick and I on whether or not we could swing it.

I'm sad to say that I did not win out in this particular discussion. I did however manage to convince Nick to purchase almost a case of wine to haul back in my suitcase.

Lost in Spain: Gospel Subways

OK, how random is this? Gospel singers from the Institut de Gospel in the subway? Who doesn't love that about a city!

Lost in Spain: Jamonisimo, the best ham I've ever had

So today for lunch, Nick and I tracked down another restaurant recommendation courtesy of Anthony Bourdain's "Decoding Ferran Adria" documentary: Jamonisimo.

Birgit and John attempted the same on Tuesday before we all met up for the El Bulli Extravaganza with no success. So Nick and I were a little nervous that we might also end up with nothing to show for our efforts. Fortunately we found success.

And let me tell you, it was worth the tracking and blackberry searching and wrong turns down streets with no signage. This was by far the most incredible cured pork product I have ever had the pleasure of consuming.

So for those who are not Jamon Iberico connoisseurs, there are three different grades of Jamon Iberico. The highest grade is a type of Jamon Iberico labeled with the phrase "de bellota." Basically this indicates that these lucky swine were fed a diet of acorns exclusively which gives the meat and the fat an especially buttery texture.

After a bit of finagling over the menus (only available in either Spanish or Catalan, clearly this is a place only locals go usually), we managed to communicate to our lovely if non-English speaking store clerk that we wanted to try the sampling of the house Jamon, an animal raised "de bellota" in the Salamonca region of Spain. The selection of meats comes from three different parts of the cured ham leg, each with it's own special texture and taste.

Over a couple of glasses of cava, we slowly consumed the ham, bite by mindblowingly flavorful bite. The fat on the ham slices was practically melting at room temperature. Can I say divine? I think all ham will somehow seem pedestrian after this . . . A few bites of cheese and another glass of cava later and we found ourselves stuffed to the gills with only a few hundred grams of ham and cheese and smiling and gesturing to the shop keeper that we would be back the next day to purchase Jamon to bring home with us. There is just no way I can go back to Frankfurt without bringing John and Birgit a taste of what we just experienced.

Lost in Spain: Kit Cars

OK Dad, this one is for you. Nick and I are driving along minding our own business when out of nowhere this noisy kit car comes pounding up the highway.

It does look pretty cool though. The guy was wearing goggles and everything.

Lost in Spain: Savoring the Sea

So after what was by far the most incredible meal I have had the pleasure to consume, Birgit, John, Nick and I lingered this morning in Roses to dine at another place we had heard about called Rafa's.

We found this restaurant after watching a DVD Birgit bought John as part of his birthday present called Decoding Ferran Adria with Anthony Bourdain. In this video Anthony Bourdain mentioned two other restaurants that Ferran Adria had taken him to, one was a Jamon Iberico store in Barcelona (we're hoping to find it tomorrow) and the other was this tiny little seafood restaurant in Roses that is Ferran Adria's favorite place to eat when he's not working.

Apparently Rafa won't even open the restaurant if he doesn't think the seafood is up to par, but we were lucky today, he was open and he was cooking up a storm for us. We ordered more food than I can possibly believe and consumed it faster than you might think possible given the quantities, but somehow, it was just so fresh, so pure that you could eat and eat and eat and not ever feel too full.

We started off with a series of appetizers, all very simply prepared on the grill with olive oil, garlic and some lemon juice. It was so hard to choose so we actually ended up with five dishes as appetizers: wonderfully crunchy but tender sea cucumber, grilled baby squid, garlicky scampis, prawns (stripy ones that looks like tiny painted lobsters), and grilled clams. And then for the main courses we had sea bream (deboned tableside) and monk fish. Both were excellent, but I think the monk fish had the best flavor of the two.

And of course no meal on this trip so far would be complete without some type of dessert. not that we actually had room for it, but we just couldn't help ourselves when the waitress offered us a special dessert plate to enjoy. Actually it was a combination of three desserts, a fresh goat cheese (kind of a chevre, but even fresher) drizzled with sweet Spanish honey, a chocolate torte and apple tart. Very delicious and a good way to finish the meal. If this is how the eating has started out on this trip, I can only imagine that I'll be heading back to Frankfurt with no need to eat again for at least a month.

Lost in Spain: Driving Costa Brava

We arrived and we're on our way to Roses for dinner at El Bulli tonight. I cannot believe this is actually happening. Fortunately we've had almost five hours in the car for it to sink in. . .

In the meantime, we've managed to stop off in a tiny little seaside town (Birgit has been feeling a bit under the weather after a night out yesterday), and Nick picked up a gorgeous rose for me for St. George's Day. I'm supposed to buy him a book, but they're all in Spanish so I don't think it will do much good. I suppose he'll forgive me though.

Costa Brava is gorgeous, the road winds along these immense cliffs above the shoreline, and as you drive them you look down into almost Caribbean blue water within the coves. We couldn't have had a more beautiful day for the drive too, bright blue skies and sun, sun, sun.

Surf School Stories Part II: Last Night Out

What a week it's been, new board, no clothes for 8 days and a couple of wonderful new friends.

Before I get to our big night out, I supposed I should elaborate slightly on my 8 days without clothing situation. When I arrived in Lanzarote last week, I was amazed to discover that while the airline had managed to deliver my surf board to me in one piece, they had some how left my duffel bag with everything else in it behind. Keeping in mind that the plane I flew from Frankfurt to Madrid and the plane I flew from Madrid to Lanzarote were the exact same one I was pretty amazed it had happened, but oh well. So after a few days of being told the bag was on the island and would be delivered only to have it never show up, the airline finally confessed on Sunday that they had NO IDEA where my bag was. So I called. Every day five times a day until finally they asked me for a list of "Identifying Objects" in the bag so they could put out a search to the entire European network to see if they could locate it.

Long story short, after calling for days on end, the owner of the surf school finally just swung by the airport on Friday only find my bag and have them telling me that it had been sitting there for at least THREE days. Yup. Three days, and every time I had called the airline had claimed that they had no idea where my bag was but they were looking for it throughout the European network. I hate to say this, but honestly, so Spanish. Fortunately I got everything back just in time to leave, but it did mean that I was able to spend a day surfing on the fin set-up that came with my board. So much better. I am in love with my new board.

So last night, my very last evening in Lanzo, I went out with a couple of new girls, Kerry and Suzie who just arrived on Thursday to this bar/restaurant/club kind of thing called Lago Mar. Apparently this place was built for the actor Omar Sharif and before he ever moved in he lost the house in a bridge game. I don't know much about that, but the space was incredible. It was built into the lava flows and is this huge complex of tunnels and lagoons and caves.

Plus the bar was fantastic. The bartender, Nino, was from Columbia but learned English from some American that had taught down in South America. Such a funny guy, and he made absolutely excellent capirinhas and mojitos. Who doesn't love a tasty drink on a Saturday night?

George and his newest girl showed up around 11pmish, just in time for the DJ to get things going in the bar. A few shots of rum, a few capirinhas and a lot of pictures of shoes later and I managed to find myself lounging down by one of the lagoons staring up at the stars. I guess there was only so much excitement I could handle in one night.

I have to say, it was a totally different Lanzo experience than Christmas/New Year's was, but it was still a good one. Quiet, reflective, sans my own clothes (you learn a lot about yourself when that happens by the way), and major progress in my surfing, or at least that's what I thought. I did learn to do a flick jump this time around! For those who don't surf that means I can now get up with out using my feet, I can basically just kind of flick myself into the air. Pretty exciting.

Anyway, I'm off now, already at the airport, and although I didn't manage to get a morning surf in today with Kerry, I did manage have breakfast with George, his new girl, Suzie and Kerry before heading off today. I do love the fact that I keep coming away from these surf trips with new friends. I'm hoping to get to Croyde this June with Kerry before I have to head back to the States. Oh well, gotta board the plane now, I'm homeward bound to rainy Frankfurt.

Surf School Stories Part II: Learning to Ride the Egg

So I've been back in lovely Caleta de Famara now for about a week with Tim, Simon and George attempting (and I used that in the broadest possible way) to learn how to ride the rather expensive piece of sporting equipment I purchased after my last trip here over Christmas/New Year's.

On the one side, I'm utterly relieved to know that my passion for surfing was not simply a passing fancy. I completely adore this sport. I think it's one of the first times in ages that I've fallen so completely for something this quickly and enjoyed it this much even though it takes a incredible amount of effort. But there you go, I'm in love with surfing and particularly my lovely red board.

So about this board. It has been so much harder to learn to ride it than I thought it would. Compared to the big long boards (all over 9ft and super heavy) that I learned on last time with Tim my board is a Takayama 7'6" Egg and it's super, super light and much more maneuverable. I think it's taken me full five days to just learn how to paddle out and sit on my board let alone ride it with any sort of grace, but I tell you when I do get those few and far between waves and I'm up and ride, it is a sweet, steady and FAST board. It's perfect. I have this odd feeling that many of my vacations in the coming years will be surf oriented. Fortunately lots of the places I want to visit also happen to have good surf. . . .

Unfortunately the last few days have been pretty miserable conditions, everyone in the school has been having what Tim calls a good "grovel" out in the onshore mush we've been seeing. I'm off today, but think I'm going to go have a surf with Tim, his girlfriend and his youngest son at one of the other breaks on the island. Should be fun. It looks pretty miserable and cold out right now but that's what wetsuits are for.

Speaking of wetsuits now that it seems the airline has completely lost my duffle bag with all of my clothes in it, I believe I may invest in a wetsuit. Might as well if they'll have to pay for it, right?

Lost in Spain: Lanzarote- The Hawaii of Europe

Today I got up early to head to a resort called La Santa, it is the sight of 3 world class waves. On my way out, Tim poked his head off the balcony to see if I knew where I was going (which I didn't of course, he then proceeded to direct me to the telephone box, where I was to turn right down a dirt road until coming to a little white church where I should turn left. Amazingly I actually made it there). He mentioned that Lanzarote is considered the Hawaii of Europe with 15 world class waves located around the island, three of which he said would be great today.

So off I went. And after following his cryptic landmark directions, I arrived. And what a sight it was. The video above is of a wave called El Quemau, basically it looks like Pipeline in Hawaii and it was thumping today.

Just next to it are two other waves called La Izquierda (a long left breaking wave off a rock reef I think) and La Derecha which is a point break. All three spots had lots of surfers on them today while I was there, and there was actually a guy with a massive camera shooting guys surfing El Quemau. I know that I'll never surf anything like that, but wow. It was an incredible sight to see, really. I could have sat there all morning long if I didn't have to get back for my lesson.

You can read all about the different spots on the islands here.

Lost in Spain: Mirador del Rio, Lanzarote, Canary Islands

It's New Year's Day, I've spent most of it sleeping after the big night out but somehow I managed to drag myself out the door and into my rental car to do some sightseeing as well as get lost around the island.

I can't say I saw that much and I know I'm missing out on some of the big sights like the active volcano park and the El Gulfo, the dormant volcano right by the shore that has filled to the brim with emerald green sea water. I did manage to Mirador del Rio though which was absolutely beautiful and I spent several contented hours driving (slowly) along winding, breathlessly narrow roads up through the valleys and over the peaks of the island.

It's beautiful here.

Vineyards are tucked away in the crevasses of the lava flow so that they are protected from the island sun and the dew that gathers on the leaves in the early morning lasts well into the day. The soil is pitch black in most places but spotted with furrows for growth. I drove past so many little plots of earth today with tiny plants growing in the soil. It's a striking contrast, the black volcanic soil and the pale green of new plant life.

Anyhow, as I said, I managed to get out to see the Mirador del Rio which is supposedly one of the most spectacular views in the Canaries. It was definitely breathtaking, however I don't think you actually need to pay to go in. You get quite amazing views from outside along the road.

On my way back I managed to get myself seriously lost. I think I drove in an enormous circle for a good two hours, but at least it let me see a bit of the island and I saw a gorgeous sunset over the valley.

I suppose I shouldn't have been that surprised that I ended up getting lost. Afterall, George did warn me that road maps really aren't worth much in Lanzarote. I definitely learned that the hard way.